A 2005 Fixin Clos du Chapitre smells of ripe dark cherry with a spruce resin overtone. Firm, dense-packed and bright in its fresh fruit on the palate, this displays abundant, fine tannins and a chalky finish which enhance the sense of extract, but also of austerity. One cannot deny the concentration, even if there is not much charm on display . Perhaps it would be worth checking out again in two or three years. Between the effects of drought and of localized hail (in May, before it could effect quality) Jean-Nicolas Meo reported one of his smallest-ever harvests. His production, however, is being boosted these days by a range of negociant wines under the label “Meo-Camuzet Frere et Soeur” (marked “F&S” in the listing above). The top wines had been assembled in tank and sulfured in preparation for bottling, and were suffering a bit on account of this. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25.