Hazelnut and nougat, but also a first ripeness, spicy and mineral, saffron, glowing iron and intensely fruity: blueberry. On the palate, silky and elegant, delicate with a subtle acid thread, a layer of melted tannin and matching melt in the background. Modernly interpreted Reserva style, less oxidative and more aimed at mildness, culinary thought and containing a lot of inconspicuously packaged extract. Concentrated exit fruit.

This barrel-aged white Rioja is as close to Burgundy as you’re going to find in Spain. It has a lot of oak throughout, but with vanilla, spice, cinnamon and more it works. Apple, baked citrus and resin from the barrel make it complex and food-worthy, and if you were to serve this with grilled or baked fish you could leave the Montrachet for next time. Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. ——M.S.(10/1/2009)—— 90