Everything about this dessert wine—its color, consistency and body—is smooth and seductive until your nose encounters a solid wall of wood. A tad too much toast, in my opinion, translates into blackened bread crust and peanut oil warming in an iron skillet and makes it difficult to locate the dried flowers and fruit aromas. Yet the wood does frame the wine’s sweetness nicely and some may love it. ——M.L.(10/1/2006)—— 87