The 2004 Romitorio di Santedame is Colorino and Merlot aged in French oak. Super-ripe dark cherries, new leather, spices, licorice and tar emerge, despite the presence of a very heavy handed use of French oak. Here, too, the wine possesses excellent depth but the search for concentration has left the wine with hard, astringent tannins that dominate its balance. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018Importer: Icon Estates, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-7111

Romitorio di Santedame is Ruffino’s top wine. It is a big, plump wine and is almost too thick and powerful in places, making it well suited to succulent cuts of red meat. But it’s hard not to love its extraction, sophisticated mouthfeel and blockbuster tannins. Drink after 2010.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 92