As we approached the estate's barrel of Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet, Jacques Carillon looked up at me and said, "The 1998 vintage is richer in Bienvenue, you'll see." It exhibits awesome aromas of pears, peaches, roasted stones, buttered toast, and anise. Medium to full-bodied and thick, it coats the palate with layers and layers of velvety, sweet white fruits, and hints of coffee and grilled oak. Lush and immensely flavorful, this wine would have bowled me over if it had possessed a more substantial finish. Drink it over the next 8-10 years. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802, Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyard, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990, Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel (516) 364-1850 and, under the "Cuvee Nicole" label, Fran Kysela, Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.