Reflecting an amphitheatric site “l(fā)oaded” (one possible derivation of its name) with rock through which he had to blast to plant Niellucciu vines in the mid-1980s, Arena’s 2007 Patrimonio Carco seems undeniably redolent of its site, with chalk dust and resinous, scrubby herbs joined by fennel, juniper berry, and scents akin to charred, grilled lamb that already set my salivary glands gushing. Firm and tight with (are you surprised, given 6 or more weeks maceration?!) an abundance of fine tannin, this introduces lemon and orange rinds, sour cherry with its pit, seedy red raspberry and musk oil on the palate, and finishes with the epitome of grip – the sort that doesn’t just tug at your salivary glands, but seems to grab for your tonsils. I suspect this will be worth following for at least half a dozen years. Arguably Corsica’s most renowned vinous ambassador – certainly the island’s grower who has made the greatest waves in fashionable French wine circles (not least among self-proclaimed “naturalists”) and internationally – Antoine Arena was inspired in the mid-1970s by Corsica’s independence movement to quit a law career on the French mainland and become a wine grower like his ancestors on the ruggedly chalky slopes of Patrimonio, a career now shared with his two sons. Their wines are as distinctively delicious and intriguing as any in France. Unfortunately, I have not had a chance to taste either this estate’s white or red Patrimonio from old vines named for the “Grotte di Sole” parcel, nor its white from Bianco Gentile, a native variety long thought extinct; rediscovered by researchers; and which Arena has since championed.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524- 1524