The 2004 “Conde de Vimioso” (Falua – Sociedade de Vinhos) has a little bitterness on the finish. In between, there is some nice fruit, modest depth, and tannins providing grip on the finish and some intensity. This will become rather pleasant, and will probably be better in a year when its fruit develops and its parts knit together. It is elegantly crafted and has fine structure for a wine in this price category. Drink 2007-2012. Ramos is one of the best known names in Southern Portugal, making wines under a variety of labels and in several regions. His labels include the familiar Marques de Borba, as well as Vila Santa. His company also owns Falua in Ribatejo. For convenience, all our grouped here, since they are all Ramos-owned operations. Ramos is also the winemaker at his father-in-law’s estate (separately listed), Quinta de Foz de Arouce. Oh, and just a pet peeve – between Borba, Vila Santa and Falua, Ramos seems to delight in making the vintage dates tiny and/or indistinct. Bring a magnifying glass.Importer: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel. (800) 667-0750; Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843; Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044