Mastrojanni’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino reveals high-toned aromatics that lead to very ripe, almost candied red cherries. Notes of tar, smoke, menthol and spices emerge with air as this wine puts on considerable weight in the glass. The heat of the vintage appears to have given this wine an extra degree of plumpness, but it is also one of the few wines in which the alcohol is clearly felt. Although the wine offers excellent length, the elegance of the finish is compromised by bitter, astringent tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. This classically-minded property is located in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, in the southeastern corner of the Brunello zone.Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202; Epic Wine, Aptos, CA; tel. (831) 689-9080