The entry-level 2005 Barbera d’Asti L’Avvocata is delicious and harmonious in this vintage. Medium in body, it opens in the glass, revealing layers of vibrant red fruit, earthiness, smoke and menthol, with terrific balance and poise. This Barbera is aged in large, neutral oak barrels, which gives the wine a pretty sense of transparency. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Coppo is one of Piedmont’s historic properties. Although the Coppo brothers excel with Barbera, (which is particularly expressive in these hills) the rest of the range is well worth a look. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620