The 1990 Tinto Crianza displays a dark ruby color, and a fragrant, spicy nose of new oak and gobs of red and black fruits. Full-bodied, with copious quantities of jammy black-cherry and cassis fruit, with a smooth as silk, velvety texture, this seductive wine can be drunk now, although it will mature gracefully for a decade. It has been a long time since I tasted a Rioja this sumptuous for under $20. Marques de Murrieta is one of the most respected bodegas in Rioja. I recently completed a vertical tasting of their vintages going back to 1959. More on that tasting in upcoming issues. I have not written much lately about Rioja, principally because the top wines rarely make it out of Spain, and prices for the finest Riojas are high. Although the Marques de Murrieta does make expensive Riojas, this offering is priced moderately. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ.