Cotarella works with Roscetto, an indigenous Umbrian grape for his 2009 Ferentano, which is also Falesco's most ambitious white. Layers of rich, honeyed fruit flow from a mid-weight yet expressive frame. French oak gives the wine additional volume and breadth on the palate, but also marks the wine to a significant degree. Ultimately, I think Umbria is better suited to a simpler, fresher style, at least when it comes to whites. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Brothers Renzo and Riccardo Cotarella make a wide range of wines at Falesco, their family-owned winery on the Umbria/Lazio border. As always, readers will find a number of great values in this lineup. The range includes three additions that have been in the works for the last few years; the Sagrantino, Syrah Tellus and Assisi Rosso, the wine I am personally the most excited about. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620