The 2016 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Montceau is superb, and one of the highlights of Damien Colin's portfolio this year, wafting from the glass with a classy bouquet of lemon oil, tangerine, crisp yellow orchard fruit, honeycomb and wet stones. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and tensile, with wonderful purity and depth at the core, brisk but ripe acids and a long, incisive and unmistakably mineral finish. Colin contends that En Montceau is the finest terroir for white wine in Saint-Aubin, and this bottle is compelling testimony in support of that contention. It's one of the best Saint-Aubins of the vintage.