The 2008 Ultreia De Valtuille received the same elevage as its less expensive sibling. To say that has more of everything is a gross understatement. The complex aromatics leap from the glass; on the palate the wine is dense, rich, and velvety, and it gives true meaning to the expression “iron fist in a velvet glove”. It is an extraordinary effort that should drink well for 10-15 years, probably longer. These wines have no track record of longevity but the balance and fruit quality suggest to me that my aging estimates are probably conservative. Of course, time will tell. Importer: Ole Imports, New Rochelle, NY; www.ole imports.com