The Clair 2008 Marsannay Grasse Tetes is - predictably given the track record of its site - even more marked by fruit pit bitterness, peppery pungency, and overt chalkiness than its two immediate stable mates. At the same time, though, it is also both denser and texturally richer, not to mention possessed of ample, ripe fresh dark berry fruit. While less charming or incipiently dynamic than its Longeroies counterpart this ought to be worth following for 6-8 years. Bruno Clair and Philippe Brun report that they had to warm their cellar to encourage the primary fermentations of their 2008s, and their 2009s were already into malo before the 2008s finished. In consequence, even their Marsannays from the latter vintage had only been assembled the day I visited them in February. (Other wines were recently assembled or still in barrel, as noted in the text, and most were destined for May bottling.) The 2008 harvest here did not commence until the beginning of October. "You had mature sugars," says Clair echoing a frequent refrain, "but not mature skins or pips." Quantities were almost shockingly small this year, the Gevrey Crus ranging between 20-25 hectoliters per hectare, and there is certainly no lack of structure in what for now present themselves as a somewhat severely concentration collection. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802