From 25 year old vines grown on terre blanche, the Charlopin 2006 Bonnes Mares exhibits an uncomfortable disconnect between tartness of fresh red fruits and herbal pungency on the one hand, and chocolate and black raspberry preserves on the other. The new wood is more insistent here than in most of the wines in this collection. The wine is certainly impressively sweet up front as well as persistent, but I'm not sure that the center will hold well enough to justify extended cellaring. It would be best to revisit this in 2010 or 2011. Philippe Charlopin is known for his outgoing personality, which applies also to the wines of his domaine spread over more than two dozen appellations, an astonishing nine of which are grand crus. Elevage is long here, and when I last tasted his 2006s with Charlopin in Spring 2008, none had yet been bottled.Various importers, including The Country Vintner, Ashland, VA 23005; tel. (804) 752-3670 and Elite Wines, Lorton VA; tel. (703) 339-8150 and Wine Imports, Ltd., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 451-2520