Rousseau's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques – which received 75% new barrels this year, rather than 100% as in 2005 – is strikingly pungent and bracing even in the nose, mingling fresh sour cherry, cherry pit, bitter-sweet herbal concentrate, iodine, peat, and hints of game. This attacks the palate as its aromas anticipated, and hints of black pepper and chalk add to the invigorating sense of grip. Even (as this was when I tasted it) prior bottling – which at Rousseau involves pumping and bottling – the overall impression here is relatively spare and delicate. But this offers a fine example of how this need not preclude sheer flavor intensity or energy, present in spades here. The finish is impressively pungent and piquant, and one can safely assume at least a decade of fascination is in store for the owners of bottles. Since Eric Rousseau – as mentioned in my issue 170 run-down of his methodology – does not on principle utilize a sorting table, I imagined the aftermath of hail in 2006 presenting a special challenge to his pickers and to bottled quality, but it was one he and his team clearly surmounted. Clos de Beze, Griotte-, and Chapelle-Chambertin were the worst-effected, relates Rousseau, along with numerous of his village-level parcels. Potential alcohol levels are closer to 2003's record highs than they are to those of 2005, but the finished 2006s – while hardly as successful as their immediate predecessors – do not suffer any spirituous roughness or heat, and are thus free to effectively make their relatively light, bright, and in the best instances distinctive statements. Rousseau reports – and my limited opportunities for comparison confirm – that the initially rather austere and even brittle, disjointed personalities of these wines were ameliorated in the course of elevage, and the best of them have blossomed beautifully. (I was unable to taste several top wines here after bottling, so my notes on those are based on a representative sampling and blending from cask shortly before bottling.) Importer: Frederic Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Packed with sweet fruit, this silky red exudes cherry, strawberry, licorice, sandalwood and mineral aromas and flavors. Despite its intensity, this remains lithe and refined, with excellent harmony and resonance on the long finish. Best from 2012 through 2024. 50 cases imported. -BS