As a retailer, I frequently recommended Chartron et Trebuchet's St. Aubin La Chateniere to provide customers a good white burgundy value. The '95 again merits attention. It exhibits fat, extracted and concentrated roasted fruit with excellent structure and mineral undertones. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. Trebuchet believes young white wines, especially his, deserve to be afforded the same right to breathe as red wines before being consumed. He recommends decanting them a half hour or more before they are served. Olivier Humbrecht of the Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace shares a similar belief, convincing me a number of years ago of the beneficial characteristics breathing can add to his wines. The goal of this firm is to produce firm, elegant wines that are made for the long haul. These are not big leesy, flamboyant wines because Jean Chartron and Louis Trebuchet do not believe that style of white will age well. Trebuchet stated that "overly stirring the lees covers a wine's finesse and typicity more than oak ever could." Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.