The 1994 Vintage Port Quinta da Ervamoira is a 60/40 blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Barroca coming in at 89.2 grams of sugar. Ramos Pinto did declare that year, uncommon at the time. Today, of course, some specialty single-quinta Portos are often more expensive, not inferior. This was in honor of Jorge's father. It has a different profile than the regular Vintage Port. The regular Vintage Port is darker, with more cherries, said winemaker Ana Rosas. With nearly 25 years in the bottle, it is very soft, rich and jammy, with cocoa on the finish. When this opened, the tannins were modest. As it evolved, the difference was remarkable, with that soft, jammy character coming out. It is caressing in texture too. This is not great in structure, however, but it is a hedonistic Port that is simply delicious. The winery doesn't have a lot of experience with this much Barroca in the blend, but Ana thought this could last another 15 to 20 years. It's Port. It should hold well for an indefinite time—they decline gradually—but it is in a perfect place now, as good as it is going to get. It gives you the feel of why people like to age Port. Dive in now or soon. I wouldn't want it to get too old, frankly, which will destroy its delicious demeanor. That's a hint.

The earthy nose is a little mute, but the maturing palate is rich and full of softening black fruit. The wine is now coming into its own, and while it lacks the complexity and punch of a great Port, it has plenty going on in its favor, including layers of spice and sweetness on the finish. Will be at its best in 3–4 years. ——M.S.(11/15/2002)—— 88