The 2006 Block 6 Chardonnay is much better, spending 18 months in barrel although it had to be reluctantly filtered as it stubbornly refused to clear naturally. Deep in color, this has a delectable smoky nose with a touch of limestone, the palate beautifully balanced with well-integrated vanilla-tinged new oak that is never so rude as to dominate proceedings, with coconut and almond intertwined on the finish. Just 270 cases produced. Feted as one of New Zealand’s best producers and justifiably so, in my opinion, for time and time again Felton Road’s wines triumph against all-comers. Located in Bannockburn, Central Otago, its vineyards nestle on a gentle north-facing slope between 200m and 335m and overshadowed by 2,000m mountains, their micro-climate benefits from low humidity, wide diurnal temperature variation and high sunshine hours. Although not yet certified, winemaker Blair Walter told me that they apply biodynamics to all the vineyards and benefit from a three-tier, gravity-flow winery and use wild yeasts as standard. I tasted their current portfolio at the winery with many turning up in blind tastings, as well as a comprehensive Block 3 vertical that will appear separately. The Pinots usually include some whole bunches depending upon the vintage, fermented in small open-top vessels and matured in oak of which around 30% is new. They mature for between 12 and 18 months and are bottled without fining or filtering. “Calvert” is a joint-venture with the fruit shared by Pyramid Valley Estate and Craggy RangeImporter: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661, fax: (707) 963-8566

This full-bodied Chardonnay certainly isn’t shy, offering up smoky aromas tinged with toasted almond and ripe pear, but it also features a refined, tight mouthfeel and plenty of focus. The pear, pineapple and toasted nut flavors finish on a fresh, citrusy note. Good now, but should develop nicely for five years.——J.C.(5/1/2008)—— 92