The 1998 Cote Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron (15,000 bottles) boasts a black/purple color, aromas and flavors of tapenade, licorice, bacon fat, black raspberry and blackberry liqueur, and formidable levels of tannin presented in a structured, hyper-concentrated style. This 1998 requires 6-7 years of cellaring, and is a candidate for 15-16 years of aging. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286-2000.

The policy of Delas selling this particular cuvee at an older age than its competitors’ Cote Rotie certainly gives this wine a headstart in tasting. With its perfumed berry flavors and ripe but structured fruit, it is already showing signs of being ready to drink. Violets, toast and flavors of dark coffee add to its complexity. ——R.V.(6/1/2002)—— 91