Almondo’s 2008 Roero Bric Valdiana shows striking inner perfume and fabulous depth in its dark fruit. This is a relatively round style shaped by French oak, which also adds elements of spiciness. As good as this is, it doesn’t appear to have the stuffing to quite match the oak, but it remains attractive nevertheless. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. Once again, Almondo has turned out a fabulous set of wines. Readers who want to explore Roero should start here. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644

Like many Roero wines this vintage, the winning key here is a balance between ripe fruit aromas and a tightly structured consistency. The wine’s power and body is rendered more approachable thanks to careful oak softness. ——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 88