The 2005 Pommard Les Charmots Vieilles Vignes – from vines Laurent says date back to the end of the nineteenth century – offers a deep richness suggesting enough marrow for a transplant along with mocha and black raspberry sorbet. The counterpoint of bright fruit suggestions and vivacity with torrifactive elements and creaminess of texture is striking and not in the least disjointed. Lip-smacking saltiness in the finish helps hold up the refreshing side of this richly-endowed, enormously promising Pommard. A Patrick Lesec Selection, Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23; Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327 0808