The 2009 Charmes-Chambertin is one of the most vibrant Charmes of the vintage. Effortless layers of fragrant fruit emerge from this intense, elegant Burgundy. This shows tons of potential, not to mention considerable pedigree. Sweet, silky tannins round out the utterly impeccable finish. The Charmes is made from two estate-owned parcels of true Charmes on the northern portion of the vineyard where Pinot fin is especially prevalent. It is the highlight among these 2009s and shows the potential Remoissenet is capable of achieving with their top wines. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. I tasted a wide range of wines with winemaker Claudie Jobard and president Pierre-Antoine Rovani, one of my predecessors at The Wine Advocate. Remoissenet has undergone a significant face lift under the guidance of Rovani and a new ownership team headed by a group of American investors. today's wines are made in an overt, fruit-forward style. Overall I found most of the best reds to be those made from estate owned fruit, while the wines made from purchased fruit are in most cases still works in progress, not surprising considering how much has changed here in a relatively short time span. Remoissenet favors low yields in the vineyards (estate vineyards are farmed biodynamically), harvests late and vinifies with long but gentle fermentations. The estate is not shy in using new oak to give the wines additional volume, including 100% new barrels for all the Grand Crus. Many of the entry-level 2009s were bottled early to preserve softness. I tasted the remaining wines from barrel.Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515, United Wine and Spirits, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 696-9463, D.G.L. Distributors, Northbrook, IL; tel. (847) 291- 1110, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460