The limited production but exceptional 2004 St.-Joseph Ste.-Epine has a deep ruby/purple color and a big, sweet raspberry, cherry, and peppery nose with hints of wet rocks and underbrush. The wine is zesty, rich, with big body and terrific fruit. This is an unqualified success for the vintage, and certainly well worth checking out. It should drink beautifully for 10-12 years. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Inviting, with crushed plum and currant fruit backed by nice dark cocoa, tobacco and olive notes. The smoky finish shows a nice mineral streak that's long and tangy. Drink now through 2009. 370 cases made. -JM

Bursts with bold pepper and raspberry aromas and flavors, but they’re elegant as much as they’re potent. Powerful fruit, supple tannins and a long, structured finish make this one of the top Saint-Josephs. Drink now–2015. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 92