The extraordinary 1998 Cote Rotie Chateau d'Ampuis is more structured, powerful, and concentrated than the 1997. My ratings for the component parts ranged from a low of 90-92 for La Grande Plantee, to a high of 94-96 for La Pommiere and Pavillon Rouge. All revealed huge colors, earthy, smoky noses with bacon fat and black currants, and various degrees of tannin. This is unquestionably a vintage for patient connoisseurs as it requires cellaring. It is dense, chewy, and muscular. This wine will be at its finest between 2007-2020. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

The extraordinary 1998 Cote Rotie Chateau d'Ampuis is more structured, powerful, and concentrated than the 1997. My ratings for the component parts ranged from a low of 90-92 for La Grande Plantee, to a high of 94-96 for La Pommiere and Pavillon Rouge. All revealed huge colors, earthy, smoky noses with bacon fat and black currants, and various degrees of tannin. This is unquestionably a vintage for patient connoisseurs as it requires cellaring. It is dense, chewy, and muscular. This wine will be at its finest between 2007-2020. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

This wine spends 38 months in new wood, and the question is whether the fruit can support it. Yes, but barely, since the spice, tannins and dryness all come from the wood, not the fruit. Maybe in 10 years’ time there will be a chance for black fruits and the perfumed flavors to come through. ——R.V.(6/1/2002)—— 91