The 2011 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Referts is an absolute delight. The nose offers a heightened sense of delineation that is entrancing as pure scents of lime flower, orange zest and minerals emerge and continue to blossom in the glass. The palate is beautifully balanced with perfectly judged acidity. It comes racing out of the blocks with delicious lime, white peach and Granny Smith apples and then rather than getting carried away toward the finish, retains its composure and ends with real class. This is a wonderful 2011 to enjoy over the next six or seven years. Drink now-2020. Fernand Morey founded this domaine back in 1919, when he acquired a couple of hectares in Chassagne plus a coaching house slap bang in the middle of the village. He was joined by his son, Marc, in 1944, and subsequently by his daughter and her husband, Bernard Mollard, who presently run the domaine with their daughter, Sabine. During that time, the family’s holdings were expanded so that there are now parcels in Saint Aubin, Puligny and Chassagne itself. The approach here is traditional with prudent use of batonnage, 11 months elevage and no more than 30% new oak. I have to say, I was very impressed by the quality of these wines that displayed precision, finesse and typicite. Most of these notes were written after about one hour of opening, so readers should note that they really come into their own with at least 60 minutes of aeration. Therefore, do not be alarmed if they seem a little “reticent” at first and do not be afraid of a short decant. I look forward to tasting the entire range chez Morey in the future. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083