The 2003 Bue Apis (100% Aglianico) is another big, strapping wine from Cantina del Taburno. It’s perhaps a little gamier than the 2004 but its characteristic profile of black cherries, earthiness, tobacco, grilled herbs and toasted oak comes through with notable depth on the palate. The tannins are still very clenched so another year or two at a minimum is necessary for the wine to come into focus. Bue Apis is made from vines that are over 180 years old. It sees fermentation/maceration lasting more than 40 days and 18 months in new French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2021. Cantina del Taburno is one of Campania’s most promising estates. The winery is a cooperative and quality can be variable, but the top wines compete with the best being made anywhere. Filippo Colandrea is the oenologist. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411