Drunk from magnum, Jayer's 1990 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux is at the peak of its powers, soaring from the glass with an extravagant bouquet of plums and black raspberries mingled with nuances of smoked duck, dark chocolate, exotic spices, burning embers and orange rind. Deep, textural and full-bodied, it's layered and seamless on the palate, its ample core of fruit underpinned by succulent acids and velvety tannins, concluding with a long and expansive finish.