A few years ago, Bertrand Dugat's 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Village was quite tightly wound and acid driven, but it's knitting together very attractively with time and is only a year or two away from prime-time drinking from my cellar. Offering up a lovely bouquet of cherries and cassis mingled with hints of loamy soil, smoked meats and black truffle, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive, with a tangy spine of acidity, tannins that are well on their way to melting and a long, sapid finish.