The 2002 Saint-Aubin Sentier du Clou, from 85-year-old vines, reveals a nose of spice, earth, and pulp-laden pears. Well-concentrated, this is one of the rarer wines that seems to have more back end than front end. While its mineral-dominated attack is appealing, it builds power and flesh as it leads the taster to its sappy, resin-laced finish. Drink this medium-bodied wine over the next 3-4 years.