The 1998 Val del Calas, a blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah, is an exceptional value. Six-hundred cases of this serious Cotes du Rhone look-alike offer up scents of chocolate, smoky, black cherry fruit, and a robust, concentrated, full-bodied palate impression. It is dominated by its purity as well as a wealth of black fruits. Buy this one by the case, and drink it over the next 4-5 years. ERIC SOLOMON, EUROPEAN CELLARS, 236 West 27 St., Room 801, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567