The 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Bousselots offers aromas of ripe red and black cherry, sassafras and licorce, a more subdued sense of piquant nuttiness than accrued to the Chaignots, and distinct, roasted meatiness as well. A bright fresh fruit essence on the palate is under-girded by stony minerality and firm but fine tannins. Distinctly bitter herbal shadings and overtly stony, iodine and saline minerality finish the impressively-concentrated long, lean picture. This seems likely to mature more slowly than the Chaignots, but either could be held for at least a decade – in that regard, this domaine’s track record is stellar, even in lesser vintages. If further proof were needed that the Chevillons are in a class by themselves among the major Nuits-St.-Georges landholders, they certainly delivered it this year. Like so many other vintners, they reported backing off on pigeage this year – and heaven knows, the resultant wines don’t lack for concentration. Their Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, Bourgogne, and Nuits-St.-Georges Les Perrieres had all just been sulfured and filtered, so Bertrand Chevillon declined to show them. He was as yet noncommittal, however, about when the other wines would be bottled, although this would probably continue through Spring, and be accompanied by the estate’s usual light filtration. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.