The Groffier 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers offers sweet and at the same time tart black cherry and black raspberry, black tea and blond tobacco, taking on a faintly bitter herbal edge in its finish of humus and caramel-tinged black fruits. This displays formidable density and lightly cooked fruit intensity quite in contrast with the personality of the Hauts Doix but it is much less winsome today, and seems to want yet more time in the cellar, perhaps 5-7 years to permit proper assessment. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.