Last year I was not impressed with Rostaing's 1990s, wondering if his soaring reputation might have gone to his head. My suspicions were not borne out in my recent visit. I grossly underestimated his 1990s, which after bottling, appear to be more complete wines. I was also delighted to hear that Rostaing, who began his career against filtration but then reversed his position at the insistence of his oenologist, appears to have decided that if the wine is healthy and clear, he will not filter it. They are not as concentrated as the 1991s, but they are successful for this uneven vintage - at least in Cote Rotie. The regular cuvee of 1990 Cote Rotie (most of it is from the Fontgent vineyard) is a soft, supple, fragrant wine that is delicious. It should be consumed over the next 5-7 years. It possesses toasty new oak to go along with its black-raspberry and herb-scented nose. The tannins are soft, and the finish velvety and charming. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA.