What would easily pass for a top Hermitage, the 1996 Saint Joseph Les Granits is more elegant and finesse-driven than the Varonniers, and offers an exotic, perfumed style in its blackberry, crushed flowers, raspberry and mineral-laced bouquet. The tannin quality here is first rate, and this medium to full-bodied beauty is fresh, elegant and layered, with terrific length. It’s fully mature, yet drinking brilliantly.

The profound 1996 Les Granites is a fabulous expression of Syrah, and in a blind tasting could easily be confused with a top-class Hermitage. It offers up a saturated black/purple color, followed by smoky cassis with flinty notes in the background. There are huge amounts of fruit, gobs of tannin, and remarkable purity and palate presence. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2015. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900