A delightful (if not terribly complex) example of the diverse potential of what I consider to be Austria’s most unjustly neglected grape, Malat’s 2006 Pinot Blanc Am Zaum offers flavors and virtues that cannot be achieved with any other. Clover, apple, and green hazelnuts in the nose lead to a refreshing, delicate (at 12.5% alcohol) yet subtly creamy palate and a simply satisfying finish. Like many growers along the Danube, Gerard Malat began harvesting already in mid-September to insure some light-weight wines appropriate to summer, 2008 consumption, and finished at the end of October. From three sites in the Hohlgraben,Importers: Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870.