The 2009 Corton-Charlemagne impresses for its balance and finesse. This is a decidedly elegant style of Corton Charlemagne endowed with striking inner perfume and silky fruit. Clean saline notes give the finish a sense of tension that is quite striking as it contrasts some of the riper elements in the wine. I especially like the coolness and minerality here. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Is there anything Bruno Clair doesn’t do well? Clair is best known for his sublime reds among Burgundy aficionados, but his whites (and the Marsannay rose) are equally deserving of attention.A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Fine Vines, MelRose Park, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, The Source, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 621-6151