Earthy, gamy aromas envelop sweet plum fruit on the nose; the same black fruit-earth profile holds up on the palate, topped off with a bit of espresso and dust. Velvety in the mouth, though it may lack a little depth, this is a great tapas-bar pour. Finishes with some char and oak, and not overbearing tannins.——D.T.(4/1/2002)—— 85