This, one of New Zealand’s cult wines, should retail for about $85 when it hits a select few retailers’ shelves this fall. Although not perhaps the strongest vintage in Martinborough, the 2004 Dry River Pinot Noir features incredibly kaleidoscopic forward fruit that ranges from cherry to plum to mixed berries and back again. It’s lush and round, yet still structured to age, with a long, silky finish.——J.C.(11/1/2006)—— 92