The 2004 Tinto is unquestionably the “best buy” is in their recent lineups. It used to be a couple dollars cheaper—the exchange rates are taking their toll. It has a beautiful nose, modest but appropriate depth, and great flavors. It has impeccable balance, and tannins that are not overly hard. It is seductive and pure, seeing relatively little oak. This is focused, elegant and tasty. If this lacks the pure power and depth of some of their other wines, and indeed seems a bit delicate in some senses, its impeccable balance is its calling card. This is a wine that just clicks. The grapes from the younger vineyards (8 to 12 year old) constitute 70% of the final blend, and are mainly Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. The remaining 30% of the blend, however, came from assorted varietals and vines over 70 years old. Drink 2007-2014. This historic estate dates backs to the 18th Century. Its first dry wine was produced in 1997. Talented winemaker Francisco Olazabal, Jr. is also the winemaker at well regarded Quinta do Vale Meao. A fine vertical tasting at Vallado in mid-2007 demonstrated how well they are doing. After a few early missteps, the wines rounded into form. The basic Tintos showed extremely well from 2001 on. At under $20.00, they are among the Douro’s better bargains. Importer: Quintessential, Napa, CA; tel. (914) 725-3479.

The Olazabal/Ferreira family owns two Douro quintas, this and Vale Meao, high up-river. Vallado is in a cooler, wetter climate, and produces elegant wines, in a modern, smooth style. Based on one of the lesser Port grapes, the Sousao, this is full of black currant fruits and new wood flavors.——R.V.(9/1/2007)—— 89