Malat’s ripest Gruner Veltliner, which spends a short time in barrel, is labeled 2004 Das Beste vom Gruner Veltliner Auslese, although “Auslese” ought not to be taken as indicating a wine of more than subtle sweetness (in this case from nine grams residual sugar). The nose mingles botrytis-inflected caramelized pear, honey and brown spices with more Veltliner-typical sage and sugar snap peas. Even at this advanced level of ripeness, and with a dense, creamy richness of lightly caramelized peach and poached pear on the palate, here is a 2004 Gruner Veltliner that harbors Riesling-like bright acids, leading to a lovely citrus and honey dynamic in the finish and a buoyant, elegant overall impression. Various importers including Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870