Domaine Dujac's 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts is one of the highlights of a superb range, bursting from the glass with aromas of blackberry, cassis, plum, rose petal, licorice and spice. Despite its aromatic flamboyance, on the palate the wine is controlled—even reserved—with immense concentration and a bottomless core, its tannins fine-grained but firm, asserting themselves on the finish. The overriding impression is of depth and substance, but this Malconsorts is clearly shutting down; those with the patience to cellar it for a decade or more will reap the rewards.