The Drouhin 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne sports a nose of green tea, smoked meat, and distilled pit fruits. Compared with the similarly understated Folatieres, this is equally intriguing and boasts a similar saline, savory, meaty depth. But for now at least, it is less well-organized, without the Folatiere's sense of refinement, lift, or proportionality. Still, it promises fascination over at least the next 4-5 years. Veronique Drouhin-Boss expressed enormous – and, in my view, justifiable – satisfaction with the 2007 crop of Drouhin whites, admitting that their sense of concentration might strike some observers as paradoxical given the vintage’s relatively high yields. Regular batonnage seems to have been a successful policy here, at least as judged by flattering textures and overt richness (almost atypically so for the vintage) short-term. For an account of Drouhin’s Chablis from 2007, consult the separate report on that region in this issue. Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818 0770