Baked apple, lemon candy, and orange zest mark the nose of Girardin’s 2006 Meursault Charmes, which comes from three parcels in the lower part of this cru, from vines of 45 years’ average age. Rich polished, and ample, it spreads impressively across the palate and finishes with impressive purity and sweetness of fruit, and just a hint of heat. I tasted a wide selection including all of the top crus of Vincent Girardin’s truly vast output (from nearly fifty acres of vines plus a wide range of contracts as negociant), the wines having been pre-assembled from barrel for my tasting (hence the wide point spreads). Girardin is at pains to press very gently and he did only limited lees-stirring in 2006. He favors 20, 30, and 40% new wood for his village, premier cru, and grand cru wines, respectively. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.