The 2001 Barolo San Rocco is even more impressive than the Bricco Fiasco. Here it is the Serralunga muscle and grip that informs the wine to a great degree. Tar, smoke, leather and plums wrap around the intense, virile finish. The 2001 San Rocco is young, young, young. What a great showing! Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. One of the major goals of the modern school of Barolo was to make wines that were approacchable young, but that could also age. In my opinion there are three producers who consistently achieved that goal at a high level; Luciano Sandrone, Elio Altare and Luigi Scavino of Azelia. Of these growers, Scavino is the least well known, and because of that, his wines remain favorably priced. In case readers are wondering, I don’t place Luigi Scavino’s cousin Enrico in the same category only because his wines never strike me as being approachable young. Both of the Azelia Baroli were aged in French oak barrels, 25% new. Importers: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887, Giuliana Imports, Denver, CO; tel. (303) 547-6343, Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA; tel. (800) 322-3742, Selected Brands, Deerfield Beach, FL; tel. (954) 428-0019

Azelia’s best-known wine may be the Bricco Fiasco, but in 2001 as in other recent vintages I find the San Rocco even more compelling. It is more intense and masculine in its expression of Serralunga terroir, with a complex nose of smoke, scorched earth, minerals and spices. As it sits in the glass the wine opens, gradually revealing notes of rich dense dark fruit with plenty of structure, finishing with broad yet fine tannins and tremendous overall balance. It is an immensely satisfying modern-styled Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Luigi Scavino may be less well known than some of his more famous neighbors, but make no mistake about it, the wines from Scavino’s estate, Azelia, can hold their own with the very best of the region. The wines combine power and elegance with a level of virtuosity matched by few in the region. Although the wines show much concentration and oak influence, there can be no doubt that the overall balance and sense of proportion of these wines is excellent. “My dream is to make a wine that is great today, but that will be even better in 10 years and in 20 years,” says Scavino. Speaking of his 2001s, Scavino says, “I prefer 2001 to 2000, it was a vintage with less heat, so the wines are fresher and more typical?more ‘Piedmontese’ if you will.”A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Very concentrated and complex on the nose with blackberry, dark chocolate and toasted oak aromas. Full-bodied and very ripe, with loads of fruit and a long, caressing finish. A powerful and rich wine. Builds on the palate. Best after 2009. 930 cases made, 650 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add