Leroy’s 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Boudots smells of black cherry, beet root and black chocolate. Polished and suave on the palate, with pure, sweet black cherry and raspberry fruit in both liqueur-like and fresh forms (as with so many of the wines in this collection), it also displays deep meat and mushroom stock and a singed, caramelized edge to the fruit. This epitomizes the concept “l(fā)ayered,” but on the other hand, it leaves no nooks or crannies for warts or quirky complexities to inhabit because it’s seamless. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400