Jadot's Clos de Vougeot is closed, but my notes from both last year and now reveal a wine with considerable power and mouthsearing tannins. At present, most of its quality can only be detected at the back of the mouth - usually a positive sign for a potentially long-lived wine. But readers should realize that this is one of the least flattering 1990s. Its dense, saturated color, full body, and high tannin suggest it should be cellared until the turn of the century and drunk during the first two decades thereafter. As I reported last year, this house has made extraordinary 1990 red burgundies. But before you rush out and spend all of your money on many of their superlative 1990s from the Cote de Nuits, do not forget that Jadot produced ten different Beaune premiers crus in 1990 that are, without question, the best Beaunes I have ever tasted. Most received outstanding ratings, but because of space limitations and my desire to report on Burgundy in two parts because of the comprehensiveness of my tastings, they will not be reviewed until issue 84. Shrewd consumers might want to take note that they will retail for prices 40-50% below those of the top grands crus from the Cote de Nuits. Jadot's commitment to higher and higher quality is evidenced by the fact that all of their 1990s, except for the generic Bourgogne, were put in the bottle without filtration. This is particularly admirable in view of the fact that most Burgundy negociants do at least a moderate filtration through either cellulose pads or the diatomaceous earth system (Kisselguhr). Some of the most prominent and successful firms, for example, Jean-Claude Boisset and Bouchard Pere et Fils, do multiple filtrations, including a sterile one prior to bottling. Jadot's refusal to compromise their wines merits accolades. The top wines from Jadot are among the superstars of the vintage. To reiterate, you will read similarly ecstatic reviews for many of the premiers crus from the Cote de Beaune, as well as several of the grands crus in issue 84. Jadot produced wines of uncommon richness in 1990. Given their prices, they belong in any serious Burgundy collector's cellar. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY.