That the greatest wine produced in the Baux-en-Provence region should be designated a vin de pays shows how meaningless French appellation law can be. The reason is that this singular wine, produced from rocky vineyards where nothing should reasonably grow, is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, which is not allowed under appellation rules. Forget the legality. Enjoy and admire the huge flavors of chocolate, spice, dark, brooding black fruits and lean tannins. This wine will age—give it 8 years. Imported by Jeroboam Wines. ——R.V.(4/1/2005)—— 94