Lightly-cooked yet tart cherry and rhubarb mingled with peat and rare beef characterize the Drouhin 2008 Beaune Clos des Mouches, which offers a gentler palate and more overt sweetness of fruit than most of its stable mates, yet manages to retain primary, fresh juiciness through a long and otherwise subtly carnal, leathery, and forest floor-inflected finish. The tannins are only subtly present yet abundant, and there is serious potential here for further complexity and 10 more years’ cellaring. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted).Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

Needs some aeration to unwind, picking up steam with juicy cherry and berry flavors all matched to a vibrant, elegant frame. There's fine ripeness and saturation on the lingering finish. Best from 2013 through 2024. 500 cases imported. -BS

2 The aromas of smoky new wood follow through to the wood flavors on the palate. However, it’s the powerful sweet black cherry and red berry fruit flavors, layered with fruit tannins and acidity, that are driving this impressive wine. For aging at least six years.——R.V.(7/1/2011)—— 94