The 1994 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is drinking beautifully, soaring from the glass with a classic bouquet of briary black fruits, cigar ash, fresh tobacco and loamy soil. Medium-bodied, supple and seamless, with melting tannins and a fleshy core of fruit, it's an immensely charming, notably over-performing vintage for this estate that's in its prime today.

One of the stars of the vintage, this opaque purple-colored wine possesses a gorgeously perfumed, exotic, smoky, blackcurrant, Asian spice, and sweet vanillin-scented bouquet. It is followed by thick, rich, moderately tannic flavors that exhibit medium to full body, good structure, outstanding purity, and a classically layered, long, pure finish. This terrific Pichon-Lalande should evolve effortlessly for 18-20 years. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2020.